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I’ve been to Iraq twice now. The first time I went completely solo in November 2022 and had an incredible experience.
It might not be the best for beginner travelers for a couple of reasons like language barrier, lack of tourism infrastructure, security checkpoints, and costs.
Iraq is recovering after the tumultuous history from war, political instability, and corruption. It is on the mend and I can’t wait for the day that Iraq and all of the Middle Eastern countries flourish as they’re meant to.
I have no regrets going alone and I would go alone again. If you’re quite adventurous, don’t get flustered too easily, and are flexible then I’d say you’re fine.
If you’ve traveled to Egypt, Jordan, Pakistan, or India, then I feel like you’d be fine. You’re probably used to the Islamic culture and that you may not see as many women out and about like in the west.
However, the tourism infrastructure here isn’t built out quite yet so you might have to jump through hoops more than usual. It may be more tiring or take longer to do things you’re used to. You can always get a guide as well. Social media is making Iraq quite popular and there are more and more tour operators running now.
I can’t say any place is truly safe. I mean, even the United States isn’t really safe. I will say it’s nothing like the media paints it. Iraq is full of friendly locals and they are excited to welcome tourists. Now that the war is over, there isn’t much violence these days but the violence wasn’t always from Iraq yet other Western countries terrorizing these countries (IYKYK). The police and military are really nice and will want to ensure your safety. They are armed but it’s nothing like the United States in terms of gun violence, police brutality, etc.
You can walk around freely and I don’t know anyone who has been pickpocketed or anything here. You might get stares because like I said tourism is new and just like your friends at home, locals are surprised and shocked to see tourists wanting to visit their country.
You’re going to need this anytime you leave Baghdad and it should be in your handbag because at every security checkpoint you’ll need to show it. I carried it in Baghdad in case a police or the army asked me.
You do not need to wear an abaya or hijab (scarf) in every city, just Najaf and Karbala. But, it would be respectful to wear modest clothing like long skirts, dresses, or pants. If you want, keep a scarf on you in case you find a mosque you want to go in. This will also help you blend in more.
Like many Muslim countries, you might not see as many women especially during the day. In most downtown areas, shops, workplaces, you might see men… especially on the streets. It might make you uncomfortable at times and the male gaze is real, but usually harmless.
If you get lost or need help, do ask the locals. They will go to extreme lengths to help you at times because they are some of the friendliest people I have met.
These are something you need to factor in on your trip. You will have to stop so many times to adhere to these security measures and as a foreigner, you will likely be the one to hold up other people. If you’re taking public transport, you’ll be holding up the bus but each van waited for me every single time which was nice. I was taken in for questioning but they’re just doing due diligence and protecting their country after foreign countries have destroyed it and violated their people.
When you’re leaving, make sure you arrive to the airport early because there are more security measures than in other countries. It will add on 20-30 minutes, maybe more if there’s a lot of people.
Given that it is an Islamic country, you have to remember that genders might be separated in places. For example, the entrances into the mosques and even at restaurants will be separated by gender.
Bring your credit card but also have an ATM card on you to withdraw money. Not every place takes a credit card.
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